Motorcycles keep getting smarter, safer and more comfortable. Yet with the most important piece of gear, many still stand in the shop at a loss: the motorcycle helmet. If you want to buy a motorcycle helmet, you have to work your way through standards, materials and plenty of tech features.
A helmet is more than a shell of plastic or carbon. It protects your head, it decides how quiet it is around you at 160 km/h, and it's your window to the road. Here you get everything you need for your choice, from helmet types to fit and care.
Why there's no single best helmet
First, a common misconception: there is no single "best" helmet. There's only the best helmet for your head and your intended use.
Physically, a helmet is an energy converter. In an impact it has to convert kinetic energy into deformation before it reaches your brain. What's dangerous is less the impact itself than the sharp deceleration and the rotational forces. So a helmet must be able to give. If it's too hard, it passes the blow on. If it's too soft, it bottoms out.
Helmet types at a glance
The boundaries between categories are a little more fluid today than they used to be. This is the current classification:
Full-face helmet: maximum protection
The classic. Chin bar and shell are one piece.
Safety: unmatched. There are no moving parts in the chin area, so the structure is most stable here.
Aerodynamics: very good. Modern full-face helmets are developed in the wind tunnel and generate hardly any lift even at high speed. That can reduce the strain on your neck and prevent headaches.
Tip: look for the "Emergency Quick Release System" (EQRS). After a crash, first aiders can use it to pull the cheek pads out downwards and remove your helmet gently.
Flip-up helmet (modular helmet): the all-rounder
For a long time it was considered a "granddad helmet", but the flip-up helmet is now a bestseller.
Comfort: ideal for glasses wearers and touring riders. You put it on almost as easily as a cap.
P/J homologation: very important. You may only ride a flip-up helmet open if it has been tested as both a full-face (P) and an open-face helmet (J).
Weight: the mechanism usually makes flip-up helmets noticeably heavier than comparable full-face helmets.
Open-face helmet (jet helmet): lots of vision, little chin protection
No chin bar, but maximum vision.
Use: city, cruisers, café racers.
The risk: according to accident studies, about a third of all impacts in motorcycle crashes hit the chin area. An open-face helmet offers no protection there at all.
Tip: if you ride with an open-face helmet, choose a model with side sections that come down far. That way at least your jaw joints are better protected.
Crossover & adventure helmet
The hybrid with peak and visor.
Advantage: the peak keeps off low sun and, off-road, branches too.
Disadvantage: from about 120 km/h the peak often causes turbulence and vibration (buffeting). The exception is peaks with clean airflow, as on premium models from various manufacturers.
Helmet approval marks and standards: ECE, DOT, SNELL, FIM
When buying a helmet you'll come across various abbreviations. This is what's behind them:
ECE 22.06: the current standard in Europe
Since June 2022 only approvals under ECE 22.06 have been granted, since June 2023 no more helmets under 22.05 may be produced, and since January 2024 their sale can be prohibited. Compared with the old 22.05, the new standard is a big step. You may continue to wear an existing 22.05 helmet.
Rotation test: helmets are now also impacted at an angle to measure the rotation of the brain.
Impact speeds: in addition to the standard test, testing is done at lower (6 m/s) and higher (8.2 m/s) speeds, and the examiner may choose the impact points. A helmet that protects at high speed but is too hard in slow crashes fails.
Accessories and visor: only add-on parts that were fitted during testing may later be fitted to the production helmet. Visors must withstand the impact of a steel ball at 60 m/s, and flip-up helmets are tested with and without the chin bar.
DOT (FMVSS No. 218)
The US standard. Compared with ECE 22.06 it's outdated, and manufacturers certify themselves ("self-certification"). In many European countries a helmet without an ECE approval mark isn't permitted. In Germany, § 21a StVO only requires a "suitable protective helmet", but with an ECE mark you're on the safe side.
SNELL (M2025)
The Snell Foundation tests with racing in mind. Its criteria are very tough, often tougher than those of the ECE. If you want maximum safety, take a helmet with both SNELL and ECE marks.
FIM (FRHPhe-02)
The standard for FIM racing series such as MotoGP, compulsory there since 2026. A basic approval such as ECE is a prerequisite, with stricter additional tests on top. If you race, this is your mark.
The right fit: take 20 minutes
Headaches while riding usually don't come from the wind, but from a helmet that doesn't fit properly.
What head shape do you have?
Manufacturers distinguish three basic shapes:
Long oval: narrow and long.
Intermediate oval: the most common shape, slightly longer from front to back than from ear to ear.
Round oval: almost round.
Good to know: for the European market many manufacturers build their helmets on "intermediate oval". Japanese models for the Asian market are often cut rounder.
The fit check: how to test properly
No play: shake your head with the helmet on. The helmet mustn't wobble and should fit like a second skin. But it mustn't put uncomfortable pressure on your forehead or neck either.
Cheek pressure: a new helmet squeezes your cheeks slightly. The pads give noticeably in the first hours of riding. If it already feels "comfortably loose" in the shop, it'll be too big after two weeks.
Forehead test: slide your index finger between your forehead and the helmet. It should barely fit in, or not at all.
20-minute rule: keep the helmet on in the shop for at least 20 minutes. Only then will you notice whether pressure points (hotspots) develop that can later trigger headaches or even migraines.
Shell material: plastic, fibreglass or carbon
The outer shell is the first layer of protection.
| Material | Manufacture | Advantages | Disadvantages |
| Polycarbonate / ABS | Injection moulding | Cheap, good impact damping | Heavier, ages faster (UV light) |
| Fibreglass (GRP) | Laminate | Very stable, durable, light | More expensive to manufacture |
| Carbon | Woven mats | Extremely light, high stiffness | Expensive, can react brittly, loud |
| Multi-composite | Mix (carbon/Kevlar/glass) | Best balance of weight & protection | Premium price |
When should you replace the helmet?
Rule of thumb: the German Institute for Motorcycle Safety (ifz) recommends a replacement after five to seven years, regardless of how the helmet looks.
Thermoplastic (polycarbonate) tends to age faster due to UV light, so plan for the lower end of the range. Thermoset (fibreglass/carbon) is somewhat less sensitive.
Noise and ventilation
A loud helmet causes stress. And stress leads to riding errors.
Noise level
Good touring helmets today are much quieter than older models. But no helmet is completely quiet at country road speeds.
Where does the noise come from? Usually from turbulence at the lower edge of the helmet or at the visor mechanism.
Tip: a snug-fitting neck roll and a chin curtain often bring much more quiet than an expensive shell material.
Helmet ventilation
Modern helmets work on the Venturi principle. Air is pushed in at the front and channelled backwards through ducts in the EPS core. There, the airflow creates negative pressure that pulls the warm air out of the helmet.
When buying, check whether you can operate the sliders with gloves on.
Is there a demist position where the visor stays open a crack?
Visor: more than just a view
The visor today is a fairly sophisticated optical component.
Optical class 1: make sure the visor is distortion-free (class 1). That's easier on the eyes on long stages.
Pinlock 120: the benchmark against fogging. The 120 insert stays clear even in cold and rain and is even used in racing.
Photochromic visors (Transitions): they darken by themselves in sunlight. But the change takes a few seconds, longer in the cold. Keep that in mind on tours with lots of tunnels.
HUD (head-up display): the first production helmets display speed and navigation directly in your field of view. That's a safety plus because your eyes no longer have to drift down to the speedometer.
EPS liner: why helmets age
The outer shell prevents anything from penetrating. But the impact itself is absorbed by the EPS liner (expanded polystyrene).
Over the years the damping effect of the EPS decreases, even if the helmet is hardly used. In addition, sweat and hair products can attack the padding and glued joints.
Tip: always wear a balaclava. It catches sweat and skin oil and noticeably extends your helmet's life.
Checklist: buying a motorcycle helmet in 2026
Before you pay, go through these points:
Fastener: double D (standard in racing, very safe) or ratchet fastener (convenient, easy to use even with gloves).
Weight: over 1,600 g a helmet becomes tiring for the neck over time. Try to stay under 1,500 g.
Communication: is the helmet prepared for a particular mesh system? Look for a current Bluetooth standard. More in Motorcycle intercoms.
Emergency features: does the helmet have EQRS cheek pads?
Spare parts: will you still get a spare visor or new pads in three years? With brand manufacturers the chances are usually much better.
Frequently asked questions about motorcycle helmets
Do I have to replace my helmet every time it falls?
The ifz advises replacing the helmet even after a fall from a low height, such as from the handlebars, because damage often isn't visible from the outside. The most critical case is an impact with a head (or weight) inside the helmet.
The problem is the EPS liner. It only damps once. If the helmet hits with the weight of your head, the polystyrene is compressed, permanently. Often you can't see it from the outside. Some manufacturers offer to inspect damaged helmets. If in doubt, a new helmet is the safe choice.
Does a €1,000 carbon helmet protect better than a €300 fibreglass helmet?
Not necessarily. Both must meet ECE 22.06. The price difference usually lies in weight, comfort, aerodynamics and noise.
Very stiff carbon helmets can even pass higher g-forces to the brain in an impact than more yielding fibreglass models. That's why many manufacturers use multi-composite shells that combine several materials to balance stiffness and energy absorption.
Why does my Pinlock visor still fog up?
A Pinlock visor is a double lens. If it fogs up, the silicone seal usually no longer sits flush against the main visor.
The small pins that hold the insert are eccentric. You can turn them with a screwdriver, increase the tension and press the Pinlock insert firmly against the visor again. Never clean the space in between with harsh products, only with lukewarm water.
What is buffeting and how do I prevent it?
Buffeting is air turbulence that hits your helmet and causes vibration and noise.
Often it's not the helmet's fault but your motorcycle's windscreen. If the airflow separation edge is exactly at eye level, this turbulence occurs. Even a slightly different screen height or a spoiler attachment often brings much more calm into the helmet.
I'm right between two sizes (M and L). Which should I take?
If in doubt, the smaller size (M).
The pads give over time. A helmet that feels really comfortable in the shop will probably be too loose after 1,000 kilometres. Many premium brands offer cheek pads in different thicknesses, for example an M helmet with thinner or an L helmet with thicker pads.
Can the helmet go in the dishwasher or under a pressure washer?
Absolutely not. Heat and high pressure destroy the structure of the EPS core and the glued joints.
The liner goes in a laundry bag in the washing machine on a delicate cycle at a maximum of 30 degrees. Clean the shell with a microfibre cloth and lukewarm water. For stuck-on insects, lay a wet kitchen towel on the visor for 10 minutes.
Why do racing helmets always have a double D fastener?
The double D ring is adjusted anew every time you put it on and has no mechanism that can fail.
In racing it's therefore standard and required by many organisers. Ratchet fasteners are more convenient, but can theoretically open or wear out under extreme tensile forces or due to dirt.
How does UV radiation affect modern helmets?
Hardly at all with modern fibreglass or carbon helmets, because paint and resins are UV-stabilised. With cheap thermoplastic helmets (polycarbonate), though, UV light makes the material brittle over the years.
A painted helmet lasts longer than one with a self-coloured plastic shell, because the paint acts as an additional UV filter.
Is an integrated sun visor a safety risk?
Theoretically yes. The mechanism needs space in the forehead area, where the EPS layer is thinner.
But ECE 22.06 includes the sun visor in testing; for example, it must work independently of the main visor. If the helmet has the mark, it has passed the impact tests with this design. Pure racing helmets still do without it to save weight and offer maximum damping.
What if my glasses press under the helmet?
Look for helmets with "Easy Fit" or special channels for glasses.
A good optician can bend the arms so they lie flatter against your head. There are also motorcycle glasses with very thin, flexible titanium arms that fit under any helmet.
Can I attach stickers or a GoPro to the helmet?
Be careful. Adhesives can attack the shell of thermoplastic helmets. In addition, a firmly mounted camera changes how the helmet rotates in a crash.
Many manufacturers prohibit attaching accessories. After an accident, the insurer could argue that the camera acted like a chisel and penetrated the shell. Better use adhesive pads that shear off above a certain force.
Why are some helmets so loud at high speed?
Often it's the ventilation. Open ducts create whistling tones.
The shoulder check makes a difference too. An aerodynamically optimised helmet is built for airflow from the front. If you turn your head, the flow separates and it gets loud. When buying, test how the noise changes when you tilt your head slightly.
Is a used helmet a no-go?
Yes, absolutely. You never know whether the helmet has already been dropped or how old the EPS core really is.
Hair products and the previous owner's sweat may have chemically attacked the interior. Quite apart from hygiene: you don't buy safety used.
What does MIPS do in a motorcycle helmet?
MIPS is an additional layer in the helmet. According to the manufacturer, it lets the head slide 10 to 15 mm inside the helmet in an angled impact.
That's intended to reduce the rotational forces on the brain, which play a big role in serious head injuries. You'll find MIPS or similar systems (for example from 6D) mainly in the mid-range and upper class.
Where is the best place to store my helmet?
Dry, dark and at a constant temperature.
Never hang the helmet on the mirror. The mirror presses deep into the padding and EPS core at one point and permanently destroys the protective effect there. Petrol fumes in the garage can also attack the plastic over the years. The helmet belongs in the house.
In short
When choosing a helmet, technology and feel count equally. The technically best helmet becomes torture if it presses on your temple.
The golden rule: put as much as possible into the fit and as much as necessary into the design. An inconspicuous, well-fitting mid-range helmet protects better than a loose high-end carbon helmet in replica design. ECE 22.06 has set the bar high. Take it as a basis and add what matters to you in comfort and technology.
Sources
- Helmet standard ECE 22.06: new rules for even more safety (Motorradonline, German)
- § 21a StVO: seat belts, helmets (Federal Ministry of Justice, German)
- Motorcycle helmet: service life (Institut für Zweiradsicherheit, German)
- FIM homologated helmets under FRHPhe-02 (FIM)
- Snell standards, including M2025 (Snell Memorial Foundation)
Last checked: September 2026. Standards and rules can change.