Buying a Used Motorcycle: Checklist for the Viewing

A used motorcycle is the best choice for many beginners: cheaper, less depreciation and no drama at the first tip-over. But shiny paint can hide crash damage, worn parts or even fraud. If you want to buy a used motorcycle, go to the viewing with a plan. This checklist takes you step by step through preparation, inspection, test ride and contract.

1. Before the viewing

• Research the model: every model has typical weak points. In forums and owners' clubs you'll quickly find what to look for, such as the regulator, cam chain or clutch.
• Check the market price: compare several ads with a similar year and mileage. If an offer is much cheaper, there's almost always a reason.
• Ask on the phone: how many previous owners? Accident-free? When was the last roadworthiness test and the last service? Are there invoices? You'll compare the answers with the papers later.
• View it cold: ask for the engine not to be run before your appointment. Only then will you notice starting problems and noises on a cold start.
• Go as a pair: the German automobile club ADAC recommends viewing with two people. One reads the list, the other checks. Take a torch, a rag and gloves.
• In daylight and dry weather: wet paint and dusk hide scratches and leaks.

2. Check the papers

• Registration documents: ask to see the originals. The registered keeper should match the seller; if not, ask why.
• VIN: compare the number on the frame (usually at the steering head) exactly with the papers. Scratches or rework around the number are a warning sign.
• Entries: do the exhaust, handlebars and tyres match the papers? Is a power restriction entered? For German papers, Reading German registration papers explains the fields.
• Service book and invoices: regular services and invoices for tyres, chain or brakes point to a careful previous owner.
• Test reports: the mileages on old roadworthiness reports must rise logically.

3. The inspection: the bike from front to back

Cold start and engine

• Feel the engine or exhaust to check it's really cold.
• Does it start cleanly? Does it idle smoothly?
• Rattling, clacking or metallic ringing are warning signs, for example for the cam chain.
• Blue smoke points to oil consumption; white, sweet-smelling smoke from a warm engine to a cooling problem.
• Check the oil level and colour in the sight glass or on the dipstick. Milky oil is a serious warning sign.
• Look for traces of oil and coolant on the engine, cylinder base and radiator.

Signs of a crash

Almost every motorcycle has fallen over at some point. What matters is whether it was a tip-over at a standstill or a crash while riding.

• Scratches on lever ends, bar ends, footpegs, mirrors, indicators and engine covers?
• Are the clutch and brake levers bent or shortened?
• Are the handlebars straight? Stand in front of the bike and compare the bar ends with the forks.
• Do the colour and gloss of all fairing parts match? A single new part suggests damage.
• Look closely at the frame, especially at the steering head and footpeg mounts. Cracks, kinks or fresh paint are a deal-breaker.

Forks, steering head and shock

• Are the fork legs clean, or is oil running down from the seals?
• Is there rust or pitting on the fork tubes? That destroys the seals.
• Pull the front brake and push the bike forward. A clunk can mean play in the steering head bearing.
• Lift the rear on a stand and slowly turn the bars from lock to lock. If they notch in the middle, the steering head bearing is worn.
• Is the rear shock dry?

Wheels, tyres and brakes

• Check the tread depth and the age of the tyres (DOT number, four digits: week and year). Factor in tyres older than about six years.
• Wobble the wheels sideways. Play points to worn wheel bearings.
• Are the rims true and free of dents?
• Look at the brake discs: deep grooves or a pronounced lip at the outer edge show wear. The minimum thickness is often stamped on the disc.
• How much pad is left? Is the brake fluid in the reservoir light or already dark brown? More in Checking motorcycle brakes.

Chain and sprockets

• If the chain can be pulled clearly away from the rear sprocket, it's worn.
• Are the sprocket teeth pointed like shark fins or hooked? Then the whole chain kit is due.
• Rusty or stiff links point to poor care. More in Motorcycle chain maintenance.

Electrics

• Do the lights, main beam, indicators, brake light (hand and foot brake) and horn work?
• When you switch on the ignition, do all warning lights come on briefly and then go out, especially the ABS light?
• Bodged wiring, terminal blocks or lots of insulating tape are a warning sign.

4. The test ride

Never buy without a test ride. The ADAC advises planning at least 30 minutes and offers a test ride agreement as a template. Clarify beforehand who is liable in case of damage, and leave your ID with the seller. They'll ask for the same.

• Straight-line stability: if the bike pulls to one side with a loose grip, there may be frame or fork damage.
• Clutch: does it slip when you open the throttle hard in a higher gear, so the revs rise without the bike getting faster?
• Gearbox: do all gears shift cleanly? Does a gear jump out?
• Brakes: does the bike stay straight under braking? If the lever pulses, a disc may be warped.
• Warm engine: does it pick up cleanly? Does the temperature gauge stay in the normal range? Does the fan come on?
• Noises: clattering, grinding or humming that changes with speed can come from bearings.

If you're unsure as a beginner, take an experienced rider along or have the bike checked by a workshop or a testing organisation for a fee.

5. Warning signs of fraud

• The price is far below market value.
• The seller is supposedly abroad and wants to ship the bike by freight.
• You're asked to pay a deposit before you've seen the bike.
• The viewing is supposed to take place in a car park instead of at the registered keeper's address.
• The registration documents are missing or will be "sent on later".

In all these cases: walk away.

6. Contract and payment

• Written contract: use a template, for example a sales contract from your automobile club.
• Write everything down: mileage, known defects, accident-free (or not), accessories and keys included.
• Warranty: private sellers usually exclude any warranty. In many countries, however, this doesn't cover defects the seller knew about and concealed, or properties expressly stated in the contract; in Germany this is § 444 of the Civil Code. So have "accident-free" put in writing.
• Payment: on handover of the bike, the registration documents and all keys. If you pay cash, get a receipt.
• Insurance and registration: sort out insurance before you collect the bike, otherwise you're not allowed to ride it away. Tips in Motorcycle insurance: avoiding the biggest mistakes.

Costs you should plan for

Always plan a buffer when buying used. New tyres, a chain kit, brake pads, brake fluid and a service quickly add up. If you find such points during the viewing, use them in the price negotiation.

Frequently asked questions about buying used

Summary

With good preparation, a thorough inspection and a test ride you'll find a used motorcycle that gives you lasting pleasure. Don't let yourself be rushed; if in doubt, walk away and look at the next one. There's always another bike.

Sources

• Buying a used motorcycle: what to look for (ADAC, German)
• Never buy a motorcycle without a test ride (ADAC, German)
• Motorcycle sales contract template (ADAC, German)
• § 444 German Civil Code: exclusion of liability (German)

Last checked: September 2026. This checklist doesn't replace an expert inspection.