German Motorcycle Registration Documents: Spotting Hidden Clues

You're standing in front of the motorcycle you want. The paint gleams, the silencer sounds good and the seller says: "Perfectly looked after, German model, accident-free." Before you sign the contract and hand over a few thousand euros, there's a step many underestimate or simply forget: reading the registration documents properly and checking the papers carefully.

This guide is about the German papers: Zulassungsbescheinigung Teil I and Teil II (registration certificate part I and part II, formerly Fahrzeugschein and Fahrzeugbrief). If you're buying a used bike in Germany, they're more than a form for the authorities. They tell the motorcycle's story. If you can read them, you'll quickly see whether the bike was once restricted, whether it came in by a roundabout route from overseas, or whether it has modifications that will cause trouble at the next roadworthiness test (TÜV).

Here you get the fields and codes explained that registration offices and test engineers usually work with. That way you can check for yourself when buying used, instead of relying on the seller's word.

Registration certificate part I and part II: the basics

Since 1 October 2005 there have been documents harmonised across the EU. That was meant as a simplification. For laypeople, though, it has become rather more confusing, because many details are now in numbered, coded fields that mean little without an explanation.

Registration certificate part I (Fahrzeugschein)

In Germany you must carry the original of this document on every ride (§ 11 FZV). It contains the technical data that count for the police at a check. Important for you: this is where the currently valid power figures are, and field 22 contains all special entries.

Registration certificate part II (Fahrzeugbrief)

The part II is best kept safely at home (or with the bank if the bike is financed). It identifies you as the registered keeper. Important for you: here you see the number of previous keepers, the issuing office and the date of issue. The vehicle's origin (such as "previously abroad") isn't noted there, by the way. If the document was issued as a replacement only two weeks ago, you should ask more questions.

How do you recognise a replacement document?

Look in part II at field (25) "additional notes by the registration authority". When a replacement is issued, according to the guideline of the German Federal Motor Transport Authority (KBA), the authority enters the number of the previous document and what happened to it there, such as "Zulassungsbescheinigung Teil II Nr. ... aufgeboten" (declared invalid) or "eingezogen" (withdrawn). Field (24) shows which office issued the document and when.

Type code "000": spotting a grey import

For used buyers this is probably the most important point. A grey import is a motorcycle that didn't come into the country through the official German distribution (such as BMW Motorrad Deutschland or Honda Deutschland), but through independent importers from markets such as the USA, Japan or the Emirates.

Finding the type code number (TSN)

Look in part I at field 2.2. On a regular German model the entry starts with a three-character type code number made up of letters or digits, for example "AAV". This tells parts dealers and insurers exactly which model it is.

If the KBA hasn't assigned a code, the registration office enters "000" and "00000" for the variant. That's typical of vehicles with an individual approval under § 21 StVZO, for example many grey imports.

Why "000" can be a problem (but doesn't have to be)

Many buyers only see the low price and don't know what a zeroed type code means in everyday life:

1. Insurance: because the system doesn't automatically recognise the model, you're often classified by hand, usually in a more expensive class.

2. Spare parts: if you want to order brake pads online, searching by code won't help. Every time you have to check yourself whether the parts from the EU model really fit.

3. Technical differences: a Yamaha R1 from the USA can have different headlights (without the E approval mark), different emissions control or even different software mapping than the German model.

4. Resale value: among collectors and on the normal used market, "genuine German models" (with Harley-Davidson one clue is a VIN starting "5HD" for export markets instead of "1HD") fetch noticeably more money. An import is almost always traded at a discount. On carfax.eu you can check the vehicle history of individual motorcycles.

Checking restriction in the papers: power isn't just power

Especially with A2 beginner bikes, there's a lot of trickery. You should know two cases.

Case A: secretly derestricted

The papers say 35 kW (48 hp), but the bike pulls much harder. The seller grins: "It's open, has about 100 hp, but it's registered as A2. Saves on insurance." That's exactly the trap.

• Legally: the operating permit has expired. In an accident, your insurance cover is gone.

• Criminally: if you only have an A2 licence, you're riding without a licence.

Case B: the restricted 100 hp bike

The EU driving licence directive has applied since 19 January 2013: an A2 motorcycle may not be derived from a vehicle with more than double the power unrestricted, so at most 70 kW (95 hp). Germany has enforced this consistently since the end of 2016. If you buy an older bike that has 120 hp unrestricted and is restricted to 48 hp, you're generally not allowed to ride it legally on an A2 licence. That applies even if the restrictor is properly entered. According to the German automobile club ADAC, there's an exception only in Germany for everyone who got their A2 between 19.01.2013 and 26.12.2016 (grandfathering). More on the classes in Motorcycle licence categories A1, A2 and A.

How to read the power history in field 22

Field 22 is the free-text field at the end of part I. Every change ends up here. Look for wording such as:

• "Leistungsreduzierung durch Gaswegbegrenzer, H=24mm" (power reduction by throttle stop)

• "Leistungssteigerung durch Ausbau der Drosselblenden im Ansaugtrakt" (power increase by removing the intake restrictors)

If a power increase is entered, look at the date. Was the bike ridden restricted for the first 30,000 km? That can affect engine wear, for example through carbon deposits on the valves if the engine was never properly "blown through".

Country code in the VIN: where does the bike really come from?

Besides the type code, there's a second feature that reveals a lot: the vehicle identification number (VIN, in German FIN). You'll find it in field E.

The first three characters (the world manufacturer identifier) show you the country of origin:

• J: Japan (e.g. JH2 Honda, JYA Yamaha, JS1 Suzuki, JKA Kawasaki)

• Z: Italy (e.g. ZDM Ducati, ZGU Moto Guzzi)

• VF to VR: France

• 1HD, 5HD: Harley-Davidson (5HD for export markets)

• WB1: Germany (BMW)

Harley-Davidson special case: bikes for export markets such as Europe carry the manufacturer code 5HD. If it starts with 1HD, the bike was usually built for the US market. Some of these US imports have a "salvage title" (i.e. a total loss in the USA) and were repaired cheaply. So a look at the VIN in field E tells you whether you should ask more about its history.

Fields 17 and 18: approval status

These small fields are easy to overlook. But they're decisive for legality.

• Field 17 (approval code): according to the KBA, K means registered on the basis of an EU type approval or general operating permit (ABE), the data conform. So the bike matches the approved production specification.

  • A: also EU type approval or ABE, but the data don't conform, for example after entered modifications.

  • E: operating permit for individual vehicles under § 21 StVZO, typical of imports or heavily modified custom bikes.

• Field 18 (vehicle length): there are often discrepancies here if the tail has been shortened. If the bike looks much shorter than field 18 states and the original value is still there, the modification wasn't entered.

Field 22: what it really says

Field 22 lists all deviations from the production specification. These entries affect the value:

1. Tyre brand restriction

This used to often say: "Reifenbindung gemäß Betriebserlaubnis beachten" (observe tyre restriction according to operating permit). Note: since 1 January 2025, tyre approvals from manufacturers are no longer enough in Germany if you deviate from the entered size or type. Then you need an inspection and an entry. If tyres are entered that no longer exist, plan for new tyres and an inspection at TÜV, DEKRA, GTÜ or KÜS. Depending on the testing station, costs range from tens of euros to a low three-figure sum. More in Motorcycle tyres guide.

2. Replacement frame

Does it say something like "Austauschrahmen Nummer..." (replacement frame number)? That's a clear warning sign. A frame is usually only replaced if the old one was unusable due to an accident or rust. So the bike very probably had serious damage. That reduces its value considerably, even if the repair was done properly.

3. Special handlebars and accessories

Every modification (LSL handlebars, Akrapovic exhaust without E number, rearsets) must appear here. If the parts are fitted but not entered, ask for the ABE (general operating permit) or the EC approval (E number) on paper. For parts with a parts certificate, an entry is mandatory. If both are missing, there'll be trouble at the next check.

Previous owners: the "disappeared" keepers

In part II, field (1) shows the number of previous keepers. If a bike has been through many hands (e.g. 6 previous owners), that looks bad on the document. Some sellers hope a new document issued because of "loss" will hide the history. According to the KBA guideline, though, the authority carries the previous entry over to a replacement. If the number can't be determined, a dash ( - ) appears, and it stays with every further change of keeper.

So read field (25) with the authority's notes carefully too. If it says the document was issued as a replacement or the old one declared invalid, ask why and for a copy of the old document. Anyone with nothing to hide keeps copies of the old papers.

Compare first registration and production year

A motorcycle can be registered "new" and still be three years old.

• Field B: date of first registration.

• Field (6): date for K, i.e. the date the approval (type approval, ABE or individual approval) was granted.

Some bikes sit at the dealer for years as shelf warmers. Technically that's usually fine, but rubber ages. Look at the tyres' DOT number (four digits, e.g. 1222 = week 12 of 2022). If the bike was first registered in 2025 but the tyres are from 2021, it stood around for four years. That can lead to flat spots and hardened seals.

Price negotiation: using flaws in the papers

If you've found inconsistencies (e.g. an import with "000" or an undisclosed restriction), you have a clear advantage in the price negotiation.

How to go about it:

1. Don't complain straight away: let the seller talk first. If they say "German model" and you see "000", you know their statement isn't true.

2. Put a figure on the costs: "Look, this is a US import. For the next TÜV I may need confirmation of the lighting, and spare parts are harder to find. On the market that's worth at least 800 euros less."

3. Draw a clear line: "A bike with a replacement frame is an accident vehicle for me. I'll only buy it with a clear 20 % discount."

Checklist: checking the papers in 5 points

Before you count out the money, go through these five points:

1. Field 2.2: does it say "000"? If so: check the import and negotiate the price.

2. Field E (VIN): does the number on the frame match the papers exactly? Are there scratches around the stamped number?

3. Field 22: are restrictions or modifications entered that can no longer be seen on the bike? Or the other way round?

4. Previous owners: does the number of keepers match the condition and what the seller tells you?

5. TÜV reports: do the mileages rise logically over the years?

In short

Buying a motorcycle is emotional, but looking at the papers shouldn't be. If you understand the hidden clues in the registration documents, you protect yourself from botched work, expensive import traps and legal problems. An honest motorcycle has a traceable paper history. If the seller gets nervous when you ask about the documents, put your helmet back on and keep looking.

Frequently asked questions

Sources

• Guideline for filling in registration certificate part I and II (Kraftfahrt-Bundesamt, German)
• Registration certificate part I and II: codes and numbers (BAVC Automobilclub, German)
• No more restricted big bikes on an A2 licence (ADAC, German)
• Motorcycle tyre approval: the new rules (reifen.com, German)
• Vehicle identification number: WMI codes (Wikipedia)
• Check vehicle history (Carfax)

Last checked: September 2026. Rules and fines can change.