Buying Motorcycle Clothing Smartly: How to Really Save Money

Motorcycling can become a really expensive hobby, especially if you don't know how the market works. If you buy motorcycle clothing smartly, you can save hundreds of euros, sometimes even more, without compromising on safety. This article is about the right timing, CE classes and materials, the used market and a few tricks the industry would rather not shout about.

Why cheap can end up expensive

If you kit yourself out completely new today, from helmet to boots, you'll quickly spend 2,000 euros or more with well-known manufacturers. The good news for anyone watching their budget: price doesn't automatically say anything about protection. A good part of it goes on marketing, MotoGP sponsorship and the name on your chest.

That doesn't mean you should do without quality. On the contrary. It's about finding high-quality gear at low prices. For that we look at when retailers give discounts, which materials really count and which digital tricks save you noticeable money when buying motorcycle clothing.

Part 1: The right time to buy

Buying out of season saves the most

Most motorcyclists think about new gear in March or April. That's exactly when dealers are fully booked, prices are fixed and there are hardly any discounts. If you really want to save, buy when the roads are icy and the bike is hibernating. Then the stores are full of last season's stock and dealers fight for every customer.

• The November effect (EICMA): in November the EICMA show takes place in Milan. All the big brands present their collections for the next year there. As soon as the first press photos are online, the current models in the shop count as last year's goods. That's the starting signal for big clearance sales.

• Storage space costs money: textile suits and leather suits take up a lot of room. A dealer who has to make space for new stock in January often cuts the price considerably.

• Buy winter gear in summer: if you look for thick winter gloves or jackets with a thermal lining in July, you'll often find remaining stock at up to 60 % off.

Negotiating with your local dealer

Ordering online is convenient. But the dealer round the corner has a big advantage: they're a person, and they have stock that needs to go.

• Negotiate a package price: if you want to buy a helmet, jacket and gloves, don't ask for the price of each item separately. Have everything put together and then ask: "What does it all cost together if I take it with me today?"

• Display items: a helmet that sat on the shelf for three months and was tried on by 50 people is technically flawless, but no longer factory-new. Often 10 to 15 % off is possible just because the original box is missing or there's a fingerprint on the visor. For a bargain like that you usually just have to ask.

Part 2: Understanding safety: what CE certification tells you

One of the best money-saving tips is knowing the EU standards. Since the EU PPE Regulation 2016/425 (in force since April 2018), motorcycle clothing in Europe must be certified as personal protective equipment (PPE). These tests follow fixed criteria and have nothing to do with price.

The protection classes under EN 17092

Clothing is divided into classes that tell you directly what it can withstand:

• Class AAA: the highest protection class. These items must achieve very high abrasion values. Usually these are leather suits or high-quality textile suits.

• Class AA: the standard for touring riders, with a good mix of comfort and protection.

• Class A: light protective clothing for the city.

• Classes B and C: B only offers abrasion protection without armour, C only impact protection (for example an armour vest worn underneath).

The money-saving tip: if you find an AAA-certified jacket from an unknown brand for 250 euros, it withstood much more in the standard test than an A-certified designer leather jacket for 600 euros. Trust the standard, not the reputation. If you'd like to learn more about CE certification and what the A, AA and AAA classifications mean, we have a separate article on it.

Upgrading armour

Many manufacturers save on equipment and only fit simple foam pads or level 1 protectors. So feel free to buy a reduced jacket that fits you well, even if the armour is weak. Then put a little money into a set of level 2 protectors (EN 1621-1), which is often available for well under 100 euros. Make sure the size and shape fit the armour pockets. In the end you have more protection than with the expensive branded jacket with standard pads and have still saved hundreds of euros.

Part 3: Materials and membranes: avoiding the brand premium

Nothing drives up the price as much as a well-known premium logo. Part of the price is often a pure licence fee so the jacket may carry the logo of a particular material maker. That's long been unnecessary. Since there's been a uniform standard, cheaper motorcycle clothing does a very good job too. You can see this with the membrane, for example.

In-house membrane or branded membrane

Almost every big manufacturer has now developed its own membranes, which often achieve similar values for waterproofing and breathability.

In practice: if you get caught in a shower perhaps three times a year, an in-house membrane is completely enough. The premium for a branded membrane is only worth it if you commute long distances in heavy rain every day or are planning a round-the-world trip. Even then you should look at the specific figures for waterproofing and breathability. In our materials glossary for motorcycle clothing you'll find out, among other things, what to look for in a membrane.

Leather: cowhide or kangaroo

For the same strength, kangaroo leather is thinner and lighter than cowhide, but costs considerably more. High-quality cowhide 1.2 to 1.4 mm thick offers far more reserves than you need on country roads. If you're not fighting for every gram, take cowhide and save a lot of money.

Part 4: Buying motorcycle clothing used

Buying used is good for the environment and your wallet, but it has its risks. Here's how to tell what's worth it and what isn't.

Where to look

• Classifieds & Vinted: good for leather suits and branded jackets.

• Forum marketplaces: in brand forums, enthusiasts often sell well-kept gear because they're moving to the latest model.

• Giving up the hobby: search specifically for sellers giving up motorcycling. They usually want to get rid of everything quickly and let complete kits go very cheaply.

Checklist for used leather in 5 points

1. The smell: if the suit smells of musty cellar, stay away. You never get mould completely out of leather.

2. The seams: if the safety seams at the typical crash points are roughened, the suit has already touched the ground. Then don't buy.

3. The zips: having a broken main zip replaced by a tailor quickly costs a mid two-figure sum or more. So check that everything runs smoothly.

4. The armour pockets: are they stretched or torn?

5. Age: leather that's been stored wrongly becomes brittle over time. Squeeze the leather hard. If fine cracks appear, it's done for.

What you should never buy used

A helmet is a single-use item. Even if it looks flawless on the outside, the EPS liner can be compressed after a fall from a low height (such as from the mirror onto the tarmac). Then it no longer protects properly. That's saving in the wrong place. If you'd like to know what to consider when choosing the right motorcycle helmet, read our detailed article on it.

Part 5: How to save in online shops

Big online shops work with sophisticated algorithms. If you know how they work, you can use them to your advantage.

1. Deliberately abandon your basket

Log in to your account at a big shop. Put the items you want in the basket, click through to just before payment and then simply close the browser. What happens next? The system sees high purchase intent and an abandonment. Often 24 to 48 hours later an email arrives with a voucher for 5 or 10 % so you still order.

2. Use price trackers

Prices on Amazon or on comparison sites such as Idealo change constantly. Browser extensions such as Keepa or CamelCamelCamel show you the price history on Amazon, and Idealo and Geizhals have their own price histories. If you see that a jacket is available every three months for 150 instead of 220 euros, you know waiting pays off.

3. Order from other EU countries

There are no customs duties within the EU single market. Well-known brands from Italy and Spain are often much cheaper in their home markets or in big online outlets than in Germany. Just watch the cost of returns in case something doesn't fit or is broken.

Part 6: Own brands: who's behind them?

Big retailers often have their own brands made by the same producers as the expensive brands. Technology and design are then often at the level of well-known manufacturers. Compare the features. If a pair of motorcycle trousers has the same ventilation zips, the same outer material (for example Cordura 500D) and the same armour pockets as branded trousers costing twice as much, with the expensive ones you're only paying for the name.

Part 7: Care saves money

Nothing is more expensive than gear you have to throw away after two years because it's gone mouldy.

Cleaning and caring properly

• Textile with membrane: never wash with fabric softener. It clogs the pores of the membrane and destroys breathability. Use a liquid detergent for technical clothing instead.

• Waterproofing: if the outer fabric of your jacket soaks up water, even if you stay dry inside, the evaporation chills you. A 5-euro waterproofing treatment makes the jacket much more pleasant again in cool weather.

• Leather grease: good leather grease costs 10 euros and keeps a suit supple for 20 years. Neglected leather can tear, and then the protection is gone.

We explain caring for motorcycle clothing properly in detail in a separate guide. That should leave no question unanswered.

Part 8: Hidden costs from a poor fit

A cheap helmet that gives you a headache after 30 minutes is money thrown away. A bargain is only a bargain if you actually wear it.

• Check the chin strap: the fastener mustn't press on your larynx.

• Test the riding position: always try trousers on in a squat or on a motorcycle stool. Almost all trousers fit when you're standing. When sitting they ride up, and the knee protectors suddenly end up on your shin. If the protectors aren't in place, they don't protect, and you end up buying twice.

Part 9: Where you can save and where you can't

This priority list helps you spread your budget sensibly:

Part 10: Buy once, cry once

Sometimes you save the most by spending a bit more once. An 800-euro suit from Stadler has a 5 or 10 year warranty depending on the product, Rukka gives 5 years if you register the product. In the same time you might have worn out three cheap suits at 300 euros each because seams split or the membrane leaks. That's what "buy once, cry once" means.

Factor in resale value: clothing from BMW Motorrad or Touratech holds its value very well. If you buy a suit for 1,000 euros and sell it after 3 years for 600 euros, you've effectively only paid 400 euros for high-quality protection. A no-name suit, on the other hand, is worth almost nothing after 3 years.

Buying motorcycle clothing smartly: your plan in 6 steps

If you really want to save money when buying motorcycle clothing, go about it like this:

1. Clarify your needs: do you only ride in sunshine? Then you don't need an expensive membrane.

2. Get informed: read tests, but above all look at the CE rating (AAA/AA/A).

3. Timing: buy between November and February.

4. Check outlets: look at factory sales or the outlet sections of big online shops.

5. Buy used: use classifieds for leather and textile, but never for helmets.

6. Upgrade: buy cheap basic gear and upgrade it with good armour.

Motorcycle clothing is an investment in your health. With these tips you make sure it doesn't blow your bank account and you're still very well protected.

More money-saving tips for online shops

Saving online is almost a hobby in itself. If you know how shops work, you can often push the price down just before buying. These are the most effective shortcuts:

Let digital helpers do the work

Instead of spending hours looking for codes yourself, let small tools in your browser or on your smartphone do the work.

• Browser extensions: tools such as Honey or Coupert automatically search for voucher codes at checkout and try them for you in seconds. But they don't always find the best available code, so a quick look yourself is worthwhile.

• Check price history: Keepa or CamelCamelCamel show you the price history on Amazon. That way you immediately see whether an offer really is one or whether the price was artificially raised before the promotion.

• Set a price alert: on Idealo or Geizhals you set a target price. As soon as the item you want (for example a particular helmet) falls within your budget, you get a push notification.

Use the shops' behaviour to your advantage

Online shops track exactly what you do. With a few tricks you turn that to your advantage.

• Leave your basket: log in, put the product in the basket, close the tab. The shop often sends you a personal discount code (usually 5 to 10 %) after 24 to 48 hours to get you to buy after all.

• Separate email address for newsletters: set up an email address just for shopping. Sign up for every shop's newsletter, take the welcome discount (often €10 to €15) and then unsubscribe again.

• Discounts in the app: many big retailers give an extra discount if you order through their own app, because it saves them the cost of Google ads.

Tricks for the last click

The best discounts often aren't displayed prominently on the homepage.

• Search social media: on Instagram or TikTok, enter the shop's name plus "code". Many influencers have permanent discount codes of 10 or 20 % that you won't find on the shop's site.

• Cashback portals: via services such as Shoop you buy at the normal price but get part of it back (often 2 to 8 %) into your account after a few weeks.

• Seconds and returns: on shop sites, search for "outlet", "remaining stock" or "used & tested". These are often returns with slightly battered packaging, but technically as good as new.

Summary

Good protection on a motorcycle is no longer a question of income. If you understand how the industry works and relax a bit about brand names, you'll get high-quality gear that would otherwise cost twice as much. It's not about spending as little as possible. It's about spending the money where it counts in a crash: on material and fit.

The key points at a glance

• The calendar decides: if you buy in winter (December to February), you benefit from the EICMA effect and save a lot thanks to the model change.

• Certification before image: an AAA rating protects you in a crash, whether there's an Italian designer logo or a German own brand on it.

• Choose the membrane carefully: consider whether you really want to pay for a licensed membrane such as Gore-Tex or whether a good in-house membrane is enough for your riding profile (fair-weather rider or commuter).

• Used pays off: leather suits and hard-shell armour are often real bargains on the used market. But: stay away from used helmets.

• Digital tricks: with basket abandonment, price trackers and newsletter discounts you get another 10 to 15 % off in online shops.

Bottom line: smart buyers buy out of season, upgrade cheap jackets themselves with level 2 armour and would rather put the money saved into a cornering course. Because the best protective clothing is the kind whose abrasion resistance you never have to test thanks to your skill.

Frequently asked questions

Sources

• Regulation (EU) 2016/425 on personal protective equipment (EUR-Lex)
• 5 safety standards for motorcycle clothing (Motorrad, German)
• EN 1621: the armour standard explained (SATRA)
• Warranty conditions (Stadler)
• Rukka Motorsport service and warranty (Luhta)

Last checked: September 2026. Rules and prices can change.